Trip Report: Sydney to Dubai, Emirates Business Class
Flights from Sydney were that rarest of things when I flew: with only 500 passengers allowed in, and the Australia government forbidding all but a favoured few from getting an exit permit for international travel out of the country, most airlines just gave up on flying internationally out of Australia.
Things are of course different now, and you can read the review of one of the first Qantas to Sydney via Darwin flights in Business Class
However, Emirates is one of the few to carry on flying. Amazingly, after months of effort, I managed to obtain that rarest of things, an exit permit to be permitted to see what lay beyond the borders of Down Under. It is a very rare treat to be allowed to travel at the moment, and even more so to allowed out of your own country, so I was determined to do it in style, and book Emirates, who have always impressed me before, and indeed many argue that Emirates is one of the world's very best airlines, with perhaps the greatest first class experience of all, and an economy class that is just as flying ought to be.
Alas, as I found out on this leg, Emirates left me disappointed. Not hugely, but even allowing for Covid, things could be much better.
Which is a shame as I did have a flight booked on Singapore Airlines, when the only possible route from Australia to the UK that wouldn't deliver a side serve of mandatory detention at Heathrow was via Singapore, just a couple of weeks before I flew. Despite being on (again, at the time) the UK green list origin, flying from Australia means flying via somewhere, and that somewhere is what counts in Covid. Transit stops in a red list are a no no. For nearly a year, Singapore was the only green list destination, and via elsewhere, like Dubai, meant a yellow list destination. Add in the further complication that vaccinations in Australia were not recognised for immigration in the UK, and that means just a transit in a yellow destination results in quarantine. However, six days before I flew, Australian jabs were recognised, and with it free and easy entry into the UK. Hence I dumped Singapore, in favour of Emirates.
This was surprisingly easy: Business Class redemptions half way around the world are normally booked out a year in advance, but Covid resulted in pretty much every day being wide open, at a few days notice. 159,000 Qantas miles later, I had a seat on Emirates.
I checked in online, and moved myself to a bulkhead bassinet seat in the larger rear cabin, out of the smaller front cabin.
So, carrying a stack of paperwork including a recent PCR test, but most vitally my exit chit, I rocked up to the normally busy Sydney airport. Rocked might be the wrong word: despite an email telling me I could book a chauffeured car to the airport as part of a Business Class ticket, this perk has been enhanced away by Emirates, so it was the train for me on a typical wet cold and rainy late spring day in Sydney.
Another rude awakening was the checkpoint at the entrance to Sydney airport checkin: before even getting to check in I was subjected to a rigorous document examination to ensure I was to be permitted even into the check in hall: once it was established that DFAT had determined that I was to be allowed out of the country, I was waved on my way with the officious giving me the passing comment that it was probably one of the last times they would be doing that: after two years of tight controls, soon anyone will be allowed out again (and indeed at the time of publishing, they are again!).
Then, at check in, another disappointing moment. I asked about lounge access, to be told that Emirates are not offering lounges, even to elite Frequent Flyers in Business Class. Instead I was offered a $30 voucher, but warned there would be just a tiny sandwich shop to spend it it.
Security checks took at least 2 minutes: the fastest I've ever been through. With just one immigration officer on duty, they seemed happy to have a customer.
Sure enough, the Emirates lounge was shut: but also so were all the pay in lounges, and indeed pretty much everything else. The airport was deserted, with only a few rather bemused passengers wandering around. Duty free closed in March 2020, and much of the airport with it.
But, joy, there was one small little sandwich shop open! And even better, hidden away in the fridge, they served a healthy serving of Corona! Alas, it was impossible to use my $30 to pay for it, as it was strictly for food only.
After a hearty dinner of a small sandwich, under the closed Golden Arches, in the eerie experience of a very very deserted airport, it was time to board my aircraft.
This was sorely disappointing.
Emirates 777 seat
Sadly, Emirates have decided that what was good enough 20 years ago, is good enough now. Business Class comes with a row of 7 seats in a row, all angled recliners, rather like Premium Economy on other airlines, only with a bit more length (but not width). Sure, it stretches out a bit, but for an 18 hour flight, I saw several passengers enter the cabin, and do a 'no, really?' moment.
The Emirates Boeing 777-300ER with three classes is large, roomy, and well, really a bit disappointing.
Now, business class of course is always more comfortable, and vastly better than the seats down the back. However, when Emirates first started flying, they went for a design that was already on it's way out then, with 7 seats across a row, with a 2-3-2 layout. Yes, that's right, they have a "middle seat" in their luxury cabin, which means travelling business class passenger need to step over the person beside them. It's the same for all of the window seats, where you are hemmed in by another passenger.
Of course, when the A380 came along, many years ago now, vastly better seats were installed by Emirates on that aircraft, with every seat having aisle access. Emirates is almost alone in now having Business Class seats without aisle access, which is why it staggers me that in the latest refresh of the Boeing 777, not only was Premium Economy not installed, but the same 30 years old seat design was selected. Oddly, Emirates Premium Economy is now being installed on their A380.
And worse, the aircraft I was on is one of the oldest in Emirates fleet, where the seats just recline, or 'lie slope' as is the parlance. The older seats also have no stowage, and your TV screen is high up on the wall. It's woeful. As is the seat width come to that, which is tight and narrow, nearly as bad as Cathay Pacific's now abandoned 'Coffin Class'. It is quite simply impossible to reach a laptop or book from your seat, so you have to get out of the tight squeeze, and prey you don't spill your drink.
When it comes to sleeping, the slope is quite harsh, because the seats don't feature a real foot rest, so you need to rest a foot on a small ledge to keep you from slipping down out of the slightly angled seat. It makes British Airways Club World look like the epitome of luxury.
I had a look around the aircraft, and with such tiny loads, there were only about 20 passengers in economy, and each one had a row of 4 seats in the middle to lie down on. Flat. Level. A downgrade looked tempting.
Emirates Business Class in flight entertainment
I was really hoping for good things from the in flight entertainment or IFE, which Emirates call ICE. Alas, the Emirates Boeing 777 I ended up in was one of the oldest in the fleet, and that resulted in some of the most frustrating in flight entertainment I've had since the days of the very first touchscreens on BA. They work, but you need to remember to press the button and wait until the system responds.
The TV screen was not only small, but fixed firmly to the bulkhead. High up. Distant. I wished for a pair of opera glasses to view it. It was quite hard to see, and quite frankly left me wondering why I was bothering perched on the edge of my seat to try and see anything. It was almost amusing see the few other people in the cabin perched on the edge of their seats trying to watch the screens, but it certainly wasn't the premium experience I was expecting.
However, there were the joys of no less than three TV controllers. Alas, all were decidedly sluggish, with a huge delay between pressing buttons and anything appearing on the screen. There was the main TV screen, which was a touchscreen, so you could select anything you wanted, but it was way away in the sky, so impossible to get to. Then there was the Emirates Tablet, which was a detachable controller, and large enough to show a separate screen such as the moving map. Emirates call it a "mode controller", and you can use this to adjust your seat, browse through the inflight entertainment lists, or even use it as a second screen, such as to display an external aircraft camera or the moving map while watching something else on the big screen.
The tablet can also be unlocked and released from its dock to display content and control your the seat and IFE wirelessly. That's handy if you're adjusting your seat while standing up.
And finally the small, standard remote, which also had a small mini screen. It proved to be the most useful.
And to add to a woeful experience, the entertainment selection was meagre, with a penchant for some rather mainstream Hollywood films that sank without trace. The TV selection was worse, and unless you are into endless boxed sets of reality TV, I would suggest bringing a laptop and pre-download what you want to watch.
Adding to the woes of the IFE, was the wifi. Now, Emirates make the most of their free onboard wifi. It is well advertised that any membership, even those without status can enjoy free messenger services, in Business Class. As a Gold I hoped this would work automatically. Alas, for some reason, the entire plane was out for Skywards members. However, I can report that the charged service, at $20 for the flight, works. Very very slowly.
Emirates Business Class amenity kit
A full amenity was provided, and for once, it was better than usual, with numerous Bvlgari items.
Other than the usual toothbrush and paste, the kit contained after shave, shaving foam and razor, moisturiser, eau de toilette, lip balm, a hair brush, Rexona, and tissues.
It all comes in a lovely big washbag; Emirates have enhanced away this kit on many flights, but as an ultra long haul overnight flight, Emirates still maintain it, and I can't really fault it. It was top notch.
Emirates inflight Wine
In the menu was a fantastic cocktail list. As soon as we were in the air, the crew came through the cabin asking for cocktail orders. Options included a Mojito, Breakfast Martini, Kir Royale, Cosmopolitan or a Manhattan.
I went for the Mojito, with Bacardi rum muddled with fresh lime, mint and sugar topped with a splash of soda. It was lovely, and one of the best Mojitos I've had on a plane. It was, as you'd expect, served with warm nuts.
At least Emirates offer some decent wine, and indeed has won numerous awards for its wine cellar program with the Moet 2008 the standout champers on board.
Other wines include the Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, with a silky texture with persistent, tangy stone fruit flavours.
But I was almost spoilt for choice, with the Hall Dutton Chardonnay, reds a Collazzi 2015 from Tuscany, a dark and impenetrable red wine that sits heavily in the glass, and a Chateau Lafon-Rochet 2011 which was dark ruby having a lovely nose of dark fruit and blackberry, with a surprisingly high acidity.
There was also Grahams Port from 1995 to go with the cheese board.
This rare, single vintage tawny port has been especially selected for Emirates from the Graham's reserves. Single harvest tawny is a port aged in 550 litre casks until release. The longer the wine is aged in wood, the lighter and more 'tawny' in colour it becomes. IT's great, but as I was to find out later, it wasn't loaded.
With decadent aromas of molasses, chocolate and walnut, the wine is lusciously sweet and full-bodied, combining a rich texture with fresh acidity and a long, mouth-watering finish.
Other cocktails on offer included:
- Breakfast Martini: Sipsmith London Dry Gin with marmalade, shaken with Cointreau, orange and lemon juice
- Kir Royale: The classic French aperitif of champagne with a splash of creame de cassis
- Cosmopolitan: Belvedere vodka paired with Cointreau, fresh lime and cranberry juice
- Manhattan (dry, perfect or sweet): A laid-back blend of Woodford Reserve bourbon, Angostura bitters and vermouth.
Emirates inflight Food
The In Flight Service was passable, but really just followed the manual as much as possible, and I got the impression that the crew just wanted to get it over and done with. This is really odd, as I've had some fantastic inflight service on Emirates before, and the only Emirates flight that had really disappointed me was in First Class, where the crew entirely forgot to serve me my main course, and by the time I came to complain, there was nothing left. That was a woeful flight.
On this flight, in Emirates Business Class, at least there was a decent menu available, and the food was well described, with three main choices. Alas the crew took orders, dumped the food on my flip out tray, and hurried off to the galley. It wasn't really poor, just rather unremarkable seeing a crew doing a job, but not wanting to do anything more. I blame Covid.
Kicking off with the starter options: there were Porcini mushroom soup, Traditional Arabic mezze or Tuna tatak.
I went for the traditional Arabic mezze, with houmous, muhammara, baba ghanouj, stuffed vine leaf and Kalamata olives.
It wasn't quite what I was expecting, and indeed the presentation was so far below other Gulf airlines, like Qatar's stylish offering, as to be rather off putting. All the of dollops of servings were in four scoops corners of one dish, and really lacked flavour.
Next up were the mains options including Seared beef tenderloin, Chicken fesenjan, or Nasi goreng.
I went for the seared beef tenderloin, served with shallot and tarragon sauce, steamed asparagus and potato gratin with celeriac.
This was actually really very good indeed, with all the flavour that had been missing in the starter. I loved the gratin with celeriac, a rare vegetable to get on a plane.
There was a small side salad too, which alas had the impression that the chef had to make one, but couldn't be bothered to make it overly enticing.
Alas, the crew compounded the lack of a personal and proactive service, by being eager to offer desert before I was even half way through the main. There was a wonderful chocolate and caramel tart. Once through that, I asked if I could try the fruit and cheese boards, and the crew just shrugged and said there were plenty left, so I could have one.
The cheese was also remarkably good.
However, coffee and chocolates were already on offered before I could make my way onto the cheese plate. The crew were certainly trying hard to get the service over and done with.
However, I got a curt refusal when I asked for the port that was on the menu, as it hadn't been loaded. Instead, there was a light sweet desert wine.
I slept for a good six hours, but it really was the most uncomfortable of sleeps, in the thin narrow Emirates recliner, and with a pronounced 'slope'. It wasn't the easiest of sleeps, and I wished for the A380 with it's glorious flat bed to come back onto the route.
I dozily came around, with a good four hours to go before breakfast, such is the length of the flight.
Breakfast offered a full cooked English, with chicken sausage and omelette, a bowl of fruit and pastries including a croissant and pain au raisin.
The cooked breakfast was pretty standard, and to honest I was pretty full too, plus staring down the barrel of another breakfast in the lounge, and a third one on the next flight to London, so I skipped most of it.
Emirates Business Class Review
I really want to like Emirates, I really do, and despite all their recent cost cutting - and there has been a lot - it is still a good airline. But oh dear on this flight, it was pretty much a ghost flight, with virtually no passengers, and an invisible crew. The two are certainly connected, with considerable changes to the service on board thanks to not only Covid, but also the tight government restrictions preventing almost everyone from getting out of the country, or indeed returning. As a result, Emirates undoubtedly decided to scale back the service.
However, the flight arrived on time into Dubai, and I was relived to have made it out of Australia.
NOTE: This flight was taken before Australia scaled back their restrictions and allowed Australian citizens to fly internationally again, after a nearly two year gap.
See the full Trip Report: Sydney to Dubai, Emirates Business Class video:
Lux-traveller paid its own way for this Trip Report: Sydney to Dubai, Emirates Business Class, and travelled incognito.
| Trip Report: Sydney to Dubai, Emirates Business Class | |
|---|---|
Lux-traveller.com rating:6 out of10  | |
| Seats: | 3 - Poor old style business class recliners |
| Food: | 6 - Surprisingly good |
| Service: | 4 - OK, but only passable to decent |
| IFE: | 5 - Large screen, but hard to see, poor film selection |
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